Down East Maine

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Portland is great, but if you want a taste of “real” Maine (and better lobster rolls) you’ll need a car and the patience to drive for hours along the beautiful and winding coastline, which at 3,478 miles is longer than California’s! I’ve tried to list recommendations in order of when you’d hit these towns, working your way up the coast from South to North.

Behold: ACADIA!

Eat & Drink

A simple lunch at Round Pond’s Lobstermen’s Co-Op.

The Ramp

Kennebunkport. Fun, kitschy waterfront seafood spot. Get a lobster roll and onion straws.

The Clam Shack

Kennebunkport. Their lobster roll is a mound of lobster meat served on a buttered round roll, instead of the traditional split top roll. So good.

Rococo Ice Cream

Kennebunkport. Homemade ice cream. Their Maine Whoopie Pie flavor is beyoooond. (They used to have a stand at Bob’s Clam Hut, but it sadly closed!)

Harraseeket Lunch & Lobster

South Freeport. Waterfront lobster shack located wonderfully near to the L. L. Bean outlet to save you from post-shopping hangriness. We had lobster rolls and “onion middles,” the fried centers of onions. BYOB. Their whoopie pies are good, too!

◐ Maine Beer Company

Freeport. Possibly the most delicious beer in Maine, if not the entire North East. Try “Lunch,” their famous “Dinner” and their incredible IPA, “Another One” – and take some bottles to go! They also serve incredible wood-oven pizza in their tasting room, and often have fresh oysters outside.

Red’s Eats

Wiscasset. This is more of heads up than a rec – you can’t miss this famous lobster shack by the bridge, often with a line down the block. I don’t know if it’s the “best” as it’s rumored to be, what with the line, the price tag, and the less-than-stellar view of US 1. But the tourists still go, in droves. If you can wait, drive 30 more minutes up the coast to Larson’s Lunch Box.

Sprague’s

Wiscasset. Lobster shack located directly across the street from Red’s. I’d say if you’re hungry and the line at Red’s looks unbearable, go to Sprague’s, it’s just as good (though some might yell at you that they’re completely different) and offers a view of the water. (But, again, if you can wait, drive 30 more min and go to Larson’s Lunch Box!)

Karen’s Hideaway

Boothbay. Lobster shack with fully loaded lobster and crab rolls. This place saved us when we were caught in a freezing, raining day around Boothbay Harbor.

◐ Oxbow Brewing Company

Newcastle. Wonderful farmhouse brewery. They have a tasting room in Portland, but it’s worth traveling to their Newcastle location so you can wander around their orchard and farm while drinking interesting grisettes, saisons and farmhouse ales. They often have great food trucks there, too.

Shuck Station Raw Bar

Newcastle/Damariscotta Amazing local oysters and beers in an old gas station.

Oysterhead Pizza

Damariscotta. Coal-oven pizza made with local ingredients, plus an excellent beer and wine menu! Take-out only during Covid, but definitely worth it.

◐ Larson’s Lunch Box

Damariscotta. This might be my favorite lobster roll? (Or, tied with McLoons…) Great value, delicious, and they often have haddock chowder, too! Also, and excellent crab roll if you’re feeling over-lobstered at this point.

◐ Round Top Ice Cream

Damariscotta. Fantastic homemade ice cream. I love their peppermint stick, blueberry and ginger. You can get it to-go in a pint, too

◐ Deb’s Bristol Diner

Bristol. Perfect tiny diner. Get whatever’s the special, and blueberry pancakes.

South Bristol Fisherman’s Co-Op

South Bristol. For all of your lobster and clam needs! Buy lobster to cook at home, or they can steam them for you to eat right on their deck. (Summer only.)

◐ Shaw’s

New Harbor. Amazing fried seafood, and excellent clam or lobster rolls overlooking the harbor. There’s indoor seating and a deck.

Moody’s Diner

Waldoboro. Classic pitstop on Route 1. Get the blueberry pancakes or muffins, and make sure you get a whoopie pie, or slice of another pie, to go. Also go to their next-door gift shop for the classic “I’m a Moody Person…” T-Shirt.

◐ Dorman’s Dairy Dream

South Thomaston. Beloved homemade ice cream stand. Try the hot fudge

◐ McLoons Lobster Shack

South Thomaston. A dream of a lobster shack, right on the water. Be sure to get the giant grapefruit-sized whoopie pie for dessert!

Rock Harbor Brewery Co.

Rockland. Don’t go to the pub in town – which kinda feels like an Applebee’s. Go to the new tasting room just outside of town. It’s beautiful, all open with outdoor tables and lawn games.

◐ North Beacon Oyster Company

Rockland. AMAZING seafood spot and raw bar full of local mussels, clams, oysters and lobster. They also have excellent drinks, including lots of local beer on tap from the likes of Maine Beer Co. and Bunker Brewing Co.

Archer’s on the Pier

Rockland. Fun seafood restaurant on the water, with a huge waterfront deck. Very extensive menu – we loved the local mussels and lobster club sandwich.

Long Grain Thai

Camden. Local Thai place that’s become a neighborhood sensation – you MUST call ahead to make reservations… that is if they ever answer their phone. They do not take walk-ins if their reservations are full up and will pretend to be baffled when you ask, however, you can still do take-out. Closed Sundays

The Drouthy Bear

_Camden. _ Lovely little Scottish pub with an excellent craft list and very tasty pub grub. This saved us when we were turned away from Long Grain Thai.

Fish Net

Blue Hill. Charming seafood shack with excellent lobster rolls and chowder.

Bagaduce Lunch

_Penobscot. _ Fried seafood dream right on the water. Loved the fried haddock and onion rings. They also do a haddock sandwich.

Trenton Bridge Lobster Pound

Trenton. Great lobster pound on the way to Mt. Desert Island. Since Bar Harbor can be a little touristy/heaving, this is a great stop on your way to/from for a lobster and corn.

Side Street Cafe

_Bar Harbor. _ Easy, yummy lunch right in Bar Harbor, but off the main tourist drag. Sandwiches and salads – most involving lobster in some way! Good blueberry pie.

◐ Mount Desert Ice cream

Bar Harbor. The best ice cream in Bar Harbor – even Obama went there! Small batches made fresh every day. Really interesting flavors – I loved the Lemon Coriander Curd and Blueberry Buttermilk.

Little Notch Bakery

Southwest Harbor. Lovely cafe – great for lunch or dinner if you’re near the Southern part of MDI. They have sandwiches, salads and brick-oven pizza.

Asticou Inn

Northeast Harbor. Classic 19th Century inn on the water, where you can get an excellent country-clubby lunch complete with a side of the MDI fave, popovers. (Basically, Yorkshire puddings, served with jam!) I had buttered lobster served INSIDE OF a popover. (Dreams can come true.) If you want to do the whole Jordan Pond popover tea time thing, I would almost recommend coming here instead, there will be fewer tourists and you still get a gorgeous view + popovers? Some people might be bothered by the slightly “faded”/”tired” state of the inn, but I love this kind of thing, floral wallpaper and all.

Thurston’s Lobster Pound

Bernard. Gigantic lobster pound at the southern end of Mt. Desert Island. It gets VERY busy, but the line moves quickly. (Tip: It’s on the water, and was very buggy when I went – wear bug spray.)

◐ Riverside Take Out

Machias. Amazing lobster rolls and ice cream for take-out.

Visit

Dickinson’s Reach.

Chebeague Island

Via Portland Ferry or Cousins Island Ferry. Only accessible via ferry, Chebeaugue provides a relaxing and remote-feeling day trip or overnight stay from Portland. If do you stay overnight, stay at the Chebeague Island Inn, a gorgeous 1920s inn overlooking the Atlantic Ocean – it’s really your only option and a lovely one at that. Plus, they provide bikes you may use to explore the island. Lunch may be found at The Niblic, a gift shop/haddock chowder dispensary located in the boat yard. Dinner you can get at the Inn.

Pemaquid Point Lighthouse

Bristol. Gorgeous lighthouse – get ready for a classic Maine rock scramble.

Maine Maritime Museum

Bath. Museum celebrating Maine’s maritime history, with lots of lovely boats to look at.

Farnsworth Museum

Rockland. Art museum specializing in American and Maine-inspired art, with the largest collection of paintings by the Wyeth family.

Captain Jack’s Lobster Boat Adventure

Rockland. Ever wanted to learn how lobster are caught? Spend an hour aboard a real-life lobster boat as it travels around Rockland Harbor checking the lobster traps. It’s strange, interesting and you get a good view of Rockland Breakwater Light from the water!

◐ Schooner Appledore

Camden. Yes, joining a schooner charter around Camden Harbor is touristy but it’s also WONDERFUL. We did the sunset cruise, and it was so, so beautiful. Plus, they have a cash bar and gave us snacks! (There are plenty of schooner charters in town, if they’re booked up.)

◐ Maine Sport Outfitters

Rockport & Camden. Kayak, canoe, paddle board, etc., rental company. They do kayak trips around of various lengths around the local lakes and harbors. We did the 2-hr kayak trip of Camden Harbor, around Curtis Island, and we highly recommend it.

◐ Camden Hills State Park

Camden. 5,710-acre state park overlooking Penobscot Bay. Be sure to take the trail up to the top of Mt. Battie for an incredible view.

◐ Owls Head Lighthouse FREE

Owls Head. Gorgeous lighthouse at the entrance to Rockland Harbor. Go here and then get lobster rolls at McLoons.

◐ Acadia National Park

Mount Desert Island. Gorgeous National Park covering the majority of Mount Desert Island – a must-do for any visitor Down East. There are so many ways to enjoy the park – hike or drive to the top of Cadillac Mountain, bike the carriage roads and visit the natural wonders like Thunder Hole and Bubble Rock. During the peak summer tourist season, the Cadillac Mountain overlook can get very busy for sunrise and sunset, so I’d recommend visiting the summit at any other time. And if you’re in need of a popover fix, head to the historic Jordan Pond House restaurant.

◐ Dickinson’s Reach, Bucks Harbor

If you find yourself near Machiasport, you must visit the homestead of William Coperthwaite, an architect/author/visionary who created a yurt community in the forest in an effort to live simply. You can hike the 1.5 miles to visit the site, and even camp inside the guest yurt. There’s also a residency offered to people interested in living by Coperthwaite’s philosophy to stay in his main yurt home. A lovely hike, and a truly unique place to visit.

◐ Campobello Island

Technically not in Maine, however, if you make it all the way to Lubec, the easternmost town in the US, cross the Canadian border onto Campobello Island, which is part of New Brunswick and home to Roosevelt Campobello International Park, a historic site built around FDR’s summer home. If you have time, be sure to get Tea with Eleanor. I’m not going to explain exactly what this is, but do it, and then contact me afterwards so we can unpack the experience together. While you’re on the island, you must visit East Quoddy Lighthouse which involves crossing the sea bed during low tide and climbing some very rickety ladders. The views are incredible and you can often see whales and porpoises.